GM-416-8B MLTL Corner Cabinet

[srivenkat]

Sri,
JUst thought of something and it may bear on this or not but here goes: Access to interior. Sometimes, in order to remove/add damping materials, reconstruct port lengths, etc., it's nice to have any easy way to gain entry into the interior. When I built my GM MLTL's I doubled the bottom panel. allowing a hatchway to the interior. It is documented in my build thread. I was thinking you could do the same but locate that on the top. I know GM has mentioned it to me and others that the top panel has a lot of the MLTL sonic loading and a double panel on the top would inherently help with that loading.

I know you are going to enlist a removable baffle but taking out many screws and a trim piece for only a few minutes work inside, sounds laborious. If you think that once built, any interior work isn't needed, please disregard the above.

Best of luck to you on the build. I'll bet that you are amazed with the sound, once completed.

Lance,

Thanks for your input, I very well remember your documentation on bottom cab. I read your documentation at least few times

I am planning for double thickness on top. Also, in my instance, the removable baffle provides the flexibility of moving to dual woofer as the design allows to have either single or dual woofers.

Thank you, I am excited and looking forward to the build!

-Sri

[GM]

The small bolted on round over are 1-5/16" x 1-5/16" dowels.

The one in the center is vertical 1.5" pine handrail.........Thank you,
Sri

You're welcome!

Thanks, but this doesn't address my concerns, so will 'come at it' a different way.

GM

- - - Updated - - -

Thanks for the compliments guys. Here is the latest version which uses a 1.5"x.75" trim frame with 1/2" round-over edge to cover the baffle screws which would be attached with Velcro.


My mother in law has finally awoken from the induced coma, is over the hump, and is now on the long road to recovery.

Greets!


Cool! Hope she's well enough in time to enjoy the holidays if not sooner!


Yes, thanks again for all the effort, but truth be told, this project has gone so far afield of the original and even from stuff I've posted recently [such as these exposed baffle screws, tacked on roundovers] if I'm following the drawings correctly [photobucket is doing an excellent job of keeping me from viewing the drawings long/large enough to peruse them as time permits] that I'm hoping all these iterations are in layers, so that they can be easily broken out into the [3] discrete designs Sri wants, with each in their own threads; plus a separate thread for me/others to use as a general construction reference for anyone to use.


Hopefully the latter will ultimately become a 'sticky' and preferably one that only I or a 'designated hitter' can modify [don't know if that's an option].


GM

[westend9]

Lance,

Thanks for your input, I very well remember your documentation on bottom cab. I read your documentation at least few times

I am planning for double thickness on top. Also, in my instance, the removable baffle provides the flexibility of moving to dual woofer as the design allows to have either single or dual woofers.

Thank you, I am excited and looking forward to the build!

-Sri

Gotcha'. I knew you were aiming on that removable baffle so access will be there.

[srivenkat]

You're welcome!

Thanks, but this doesn't address my concerns, so will 'come at it' a different way.

GM

- - - Updated - - -




Greets!


Cool! Hope she's well enough in time to enjoy the holidays if not sooner!


Yes, thanks again for all the effort, but truth be told, this project has gone so far afield of the original and even from stuff I've posted recently [such as these exposed baffle screws, tacked on roundovers] if I'm following the drawings correctly [photobucket is doing an excellent job of keeping me from viewing the drawings long/large enough to peruse them as time permits] that I'm hoping all these iterations are in layers, so that they can be easily broken out into the [3] discrete designs Sri wants, with each in their own threads; plus a separate thread for me/others to use as a general construction reference for anyone to use.


Hopefully the latter will ultimately become a 'sticky' and preferably one that only I or a 'designated hitter' can modify [don't know if that's an option].


GM

GM,

Thank you.

Regarding the project details, I am capturing all yours and James input along with the diagrams in a separate document. Once you call it 'complete' I will organize the details (in some form) and share that with you and James for review and post back here in separate thread(s).

Look forward to your input.

Thank you,
Sri

[GM]

You're welcome, but I'm done till I see what's planned to be built in its various iterations as well as the general design reference drawings, though of course only need the first on your list for now that I can download, browse at a size I can easily see all the details when blown up on a laptop.

GM

[srivenkat]

You're welcome, but I'm done till I see what's planned to be built in its various iterations as well as the general design reference drawings, though of course only need the first on your list for now that I can download, browse at a size I can easily see all the details when blown up on a laptop.

GM

GM,

Thank you.

I am not able to attach the diagram (I am sending these diagrams through email) - please refer James?s post #162 and post #160 .
James has another version of this diagram (post #167) and the resolution doesn?t help when I expand. I will wait to hear from James (haven?t heard from him hope things are going well for him) for a higher resolution diagram.

Here are the specification of this cabinet (based on the defined spec),

6-Sided Corner Cabinet ? Single Woofer - 416-8B/811B/802-8G
? Front Baffle ? 58.5H, 38.5W
? Two Side Parallel Boards ? 14 - 11/16? W
? Four Back Boards - 11-15/16?W, center angled boards are cut at a 15 degree miter on both ends. Outer miter is 22.5 degrees as is the vertical extreme side boards.
? Five dowels - 1-5/16" x 1-5/16" - connected at the miter joints
? Frame - 1.5?X 0.75? in the front for mounting the front baffle
? 9? Diameter/Side Vent on the parallel boards with adjustable option to go down to 5?
? Double thickness (1.5?) for Top


Inside
? Vertical 1.5" pine handrail top and bottom panel stiffener with two 4"x4" pieces of plywood
? 3/4" motor supports that will attach to the vertical 1.5" handrail stiffener

Horn
? Cavity ? Horn will be flush mounted like M-19 having foam on sides, top and bottom.
? Horn Down ? initial spec was 4-3/4? but James recommended @ 5 ? ?? to build a box around the horn recess so that the recess is completely attached to the front baffle and completely removes with it.

Woofer
- Woofer Down ? Initial spec was 22? but with horn down change it is @ 22-3/4?, flush mounted

Construction
? All six boards (parallel & miter) and dowels will be glued and nailed together with a brad nailer using finish pin nails
? Front baffle will be mounted on inside frame with neoprene
? 1.5"x.75" trim frame to cover the front baffle screws
? Triangle or Square logs to reinforce butt joints
? Insulation - ??
? Glue ? PL400
? Neoprene ? Neoprene ? EPDM-SBR (Item # 6YLU2 from Grainger)
? Veneering (wooden backed/paper backed - TBD)

Hope this covers the details.

Thank you,
Sri

[VolvoHeretic]

Hey all, sorry I've been absent for awhile, I've been very busy lately with all of the packing and moving to Canada after the election and all that... at least it's only a 50 mile trek.

Here are the latest plans, I love designing, but hate the labeling and page setup stuff. I will eventually create a PDF of the 3 or so drawing sheet, but Photobucket won't accept a PDF format, so I will have to send them via Private Email.

I figure that we currently have a net Vb for a single 416-8B/811B/802xx of 26.1407CF and with twin 416-8B/511B/802xx of 23.7068CF. Each 1/2" increase of box depth equals about .65CF. GM, just how accurate to 24CF do you want the Vb to be?

For the driver rear support, I am leaving a 1/4" gap, thinking that some surplus rubber conveyer belt (Rex's Hardware) can be used to create a snug fit around the magnet structures.

[srivenkat]

Hey all, sorry I've been absent for awhile, I've been very busy lately with all of the packing and moving to Canada after the election and all that... at least it's only a 50 mile trek.

Here are the latest plans, I love designing, but hate the labeling and page setup stuff. I will eventually create a PDF of the 3 or so drawing sheet, but Photobucket won't accept a PDF format, so I will have to send them via Private Email.

I figure that we currently have a net Vb for a single 416-8B/811B/802xx of 26.1407CF and with twin 416-8B/511B/802xx of 23.7068CF. Each 1/2" increase of box depth equals about .65CF. GM, just how accurate to 24CF do you want the Vb to be?

For the driver rear support, I am leaving a 1/4" gap, thinking that some surplus rubber conveyer belt (Rex's Hardware) can be used to create a snug fit around the magnet structures.

Hello James, Great to see you back here! Hope your move goes smooth and, good luck. Sounds like not as bad as my move across ocean and couple of times!

On handrail support, Vertical 1.5" pine handrail top and bottom panel stiffener, might block the 511B horn & driver in the dual woofer configuration. With 511B & 802 driver the depth comes to 22" (18-1/2" + 3-1/2"). So, handrail should be pushed back or, can we use two dowels for top & bottom stiffener left & right sides of the horn and have a the driver support board connected to back of the cabinet?

Also, suggestion from GM, - have crossties and front/rear brace in the bottom half. The object is to tie all [6] sides together to keep them from 'breathing'. Cabs this large, heavy probably don't need it since it won't be doing any true sub bass nor will be handling very high power, but never hurts and probably needed for the dual drivers.

Thank you,
Sri

[srivenkat]

Hey all, sorry I've been absent for awhile, I've been very busy lately with all of the packing and moving to Canada after the election and all that... at least it's only a 50 mile trek.

Here are the latest plans, I love designing, but hate the labeling and page setup stuff. I will eventually create a PDF of the 3 or so drawing sheet, but Photobucket won't accept a PDF format, so I will have to send them via Private Email.

Wishing you and yours a wonderful new year!

Finally, I started the build and making progress. I will post pictures soon.

At this point, I have the all the cuts and trying to join the angled (15 & 22.5) boards. To me, this is the TOUGHEST part. Starting with couple of boards, PL-400 glued and brad nailed from outside still I could see some gaps in between. Planning to fill them with PL400 & saw dust mix. Once I get this right, planning to move on.

Thank you,
Sri

[Altec Best]

At this point, I have the all the cuts and trying to join the angled (15 & 22.5) boards. To me, this is the TOUGHEST part. Starting with couple of boards, PL-400 glued and brad nailed from outside still I could see some gaps in between. Planning to fill them with PL400 & saw dust mix. Once I get this right, planning to move on.

Thank you,
Sri

You should really use biscuits all along the angled edges.. It is the only way to ensure an airtight strong glued joint...If you don't have a biscuit joiner you can rent one at Home Depot.Or any similar lumber yard.